Car entry, engine start, ect.

   Hello folks, 
First I would like to thank Amal for writing this book and giving all of us a great place for research.  I have been interested in RFID for some time but just now am taking the time to get involved.  I ordered two copies of the book which got here Saturday and I'm working on several ideas.  The most important project is for my custom truck I am building.  
The truck is a very custom pickup where I decided to encompass the three great heritage lines from General Motors.  The truck frame and cab are 2001 Silverado, the bed and tail lights are from 06 Silverado.  The engine and driveline are '06 Corvette with a custom dual WS6 firebird style ram air intake system run into an MP2300 Magnacharger Supercharger with a 150lb nitrous setup.  The body is a very custom project incorporating the front end, body cladding, custom taillights, roofline, sunroof, running boards and third break light out of a 2006 Platinum Edition Cadillac Escalade.  All of the handles are shaved and the whole trucked  is smoothed out.  The interior is a combination of Cadillac Escalade and '06 Silverado with major changes in the control systems and User interfaces.  All buttons have been (or will be) replaced with touch panels and the radio is being replaced with a 9.5" in-dash touch screen command center running a Mobile PC.  The audio specifications list is far too long to bore you with in this post.  Custom gloss black paneling, soft microfiber and black leather will round out the interior.
Now onto my project.  As I mentioned all handles have been shaved off the truck, no tailgate or door handles remain.  Here's what I want to do.  I want to control the hood, tailgate, tonneau cover, doors and the engine start function with an implanted RFID chip that will go in next month.  I have very extensive knowledge of 12 Volt, Class II Databus, and LAN/CAN Bus systems in automobiles.  I used to build custom cars for a living and am now simply a student.
Here's my thoughts: I would like to have a two-tier setup in that I would like to set up a perimeter for my implant that triggers a switch from �armed� to �ready� when the interrogator sees my RFID signal. Then all of the �open� functions can be controlled by the individual sensors in the objects I want opened (IE Door, Tailgate ect.) I was thinking a sort of eddie sensor or a capacitive switch like this one here.  
http://www.lafranceautoworks.com/video/mtdemovid_0001.wmv  http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc =ultratouch
Either way, I�m not going to pay $600 per switch, as I need hood, FLD, FRD, RRD, RLD tailgate, and tonneau.  7X$600 = $4200 for switches, I think not.  So if anybody wants to help me build that system feel free to jump in here.  I really want tier two to be accessible by passengers.  That way there are no key fobs to have the use just to get into the truck.  I�m the key, and then they can get in.  
I have begun to worry about the ability for an implantable chip to function at the distance like I am needing.  If we say the antenna in dead center of the truck that gives me let�s say about 9 foot minimum in range needed, and that�s if I�m dry humping the tailgate.  I would say I need 10�-15� to make this system promising.  I would however be ok with several units if we could set them up in parallel so that I could have say, five feet of range from any corner of the truck.  Have a sensor on the tonneau, under the hood and in each door.
Thoughts?  
Oh and here�s the FAQ page for the Magic Touch:
http://www.lafranceautoworks.com/faq.php 

Edited by EZRado - 21 September 2009 at 11:54am

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EZRado Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 21 September 2009 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote EZRado Report Post Quote Reply Topic: Car entry, engine start, ect. Posted: 21 September 2009 at 11:52am
	Hello folks, First I would like to thank Amal for writing this book and giving all of us a great place for research. I have been interested in RFID for some time but just now am taking the time to get involved. I ordered two copies of the book which got here Saturday and I'm working on several ideas. The most important project is for my custom truck I am building. The truck is a very custom pickup where I decided to encompass the three great heritage lines from General Motors. The truck frame and cab are 2001 Silverado, the bed and tail lights are from 06 Silverado. The engine and driveline are '06 Corvette with a custom dual WS6 firebird style ram air intake system run into an MP2300 Magnacharger Supercharger with a 150lb nitrous setup. The body is a very custom project incorporating the front end, body cladding, custom taillights, roofline, sunroof, running boards and third break light out of a 2006 Platinum Edition Cadillac Escalade. All of the handles are shaved and the whole trucked is smoothed out. The interior is a combination of Cadillac Escalade and '06 Silverado with major changes in the control systems and User interfaces. All buttons have been (or will be) replaced with touch panels and the radio is being replaced with a 9.5" in-dash touch screen command center running a Mobile PC. The audio specifications list is far too long to bore you with in this post. Custom gloss black paneling, soft microfiber and black leather will round out the interior. Now onto my project. As I mentioned all handles have been shaved off the truck, no tailgate or door handles remain. Here's what I want to do. I want to control the hood, tailgate, tonneau cover, doors and the engine start function with an implanted RFID chip that will go in next month. I have very extensive knowledge of 12 Volt, Class II Databus, and LAN/CAN Bus systems in automobiles. I used to build custom cars for a living and am now simply a student. Here's my thoughts: I would like to have a two-tier setup in that I would like to set up a perimeter for my implant that triggers a switch from �armed� to �ready� when the interrogator sees my RFID signal. Then all of the �open� functions can be controlled by the individual sensors in the objects I want opened (IE Door, Tailgate ect.) I was thinking a sort of eddie sensor or a capacitive switch like this one here. http://www.lafranceautoworks.com/video/mtdemovid_0001.wmv http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc =ultratouch Either way, I�m not going to pay $600 per switch, as I need hood, FLD, FRD, RRD, RLD tailgate, and tonneau. 7X$600 = $4200 for switches, I think not. So if anybody wants to help me build that system feel free to jump in here. I really want tier two to be accessible by passengers. That way there are no key fobs to have the use just to get into the truck. I�m the key, and then they can get in. I have begun to worry about the ability for an implantable chip to function at the distance like I am needing. If we say the antenna in dead center of the truck that gives me let�s say about 9 foot minimum in range needed, and that�s if I�m dry humping the tailgate. I would say I need 10�-15� to make this system promising. I would however be ok with several units if we could set them up in parallel so that I could have say, five feet of range from any corner of the truck. Have a sensor on the tonneau, under the hood and in each door. Thoughts? Oh and here�s the FAQ page for the Magic Touch: http://www.lafranceautoworks.com/faq.php Edited by EZRado - 21 September 2009 at 11:54am
	People ask me "what's wrong with the human body?" I say "nothing, it's just time for an upgrade" "You're gonna do What?"

amal Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: 22 November 2005 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1530	Post Options Post Reply Quote amal Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 21 September 2009 at 2:03pm
	Hey there, Sorry to say that an implant has a 4 inch range max... a far cry from 9 feet. Because you want passengers to be able to activate the switches without a fob or implant, you're last option is to use a more traditional active RFID keyfob that stays in your pocket. These kinds of things are used on modern cars all the time... just replace the mechanical button used in most door handles with a capacitive proximity switch. You can get/build these kinds of switches for far less money than the "Ultratouch".
	Amal ;) www.amal.net

EZRado Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 21 September 2009 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote EZRado Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 21 September 2009 at 3:30pm
	I swear somewhere I read that they were 10"-12". Why is it so small? Is is antenna, or just power ability, or? Also do you have something in mind for that switch design you were referring to? Evan
	People ask me "what's wrong with the human body?" I say "nothing, it's just time for an upgrade" "You're gonna do What?"

amal Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: 22 November 2005 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1530	Post Options Post Reply Quote amal Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 21 September 2009 at 3:42pm
	It's a combination of things, but mostly it's the fact that the antenna coil in a glass implant is tightly wound into a cylender. A 125kHz RFID tag in an ISO "clamshell" card form factor, when used with a high power reader could probably be read under ideal conditions at a little more than 12", but not an implant. Other factors include tag orientation to the reader antenna, proximity of metal near the reader, or between the reader and tag, and liquids in the body blocking the field. There are lots of capacitive switches out there, just search for "proximity switch" or "capacitive proximity" or "touch sensor" and you'll find something out there that you could hook to a relay to act as a switch. The most simple design uses a couple transistors: For more info on transistors, including the source of the above diagram, check this page out.
	Amal ;) www.amal.net

Whiterabbit Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 09 April 2009 Online Status: Offline Posts: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote Whiterabbit Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 13 January 2010 at 8:15pm
	for a ton of capacitive sensors, I'd experiment with this concept: http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Main/CapSense

Mitch Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 30 June 2010 Online Status: Offline Posts: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mitch Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 29 July 2010 at 11:01am
	Amal, I just got the ebay reader with the cylindrical antenna like you have hooked up in your car. A couple questions, do I need to hook up the keyless entry remote to the relay, then the relay to the reader, or can I just hook up the remote to the two wires coming off the reader (yellow power and green negative) and bypass the relay? Also, I need to lengthen the antenna wire, should I do it using coax like described in chapter 3? The novice thanks you, Mitch

amal Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: 22 November 2005 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1530	Post Options Post Reply Quote amal Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 29 July 2010 at 11:41am
	Those ebay readers are odd because over the years I've seen 3 versions with slightly different components on them, but I've never seen one with a relay on-board so you will have to get yourself one between the reader and remote. If you push power directly into the remote from the reader it will likely burn our your remote. If you have to lengthen the antenna, then I would use RG-58 50ohm coax (like in chapter 3)... but there's no guarantee that wouldn't detune the antenna and reduce range. I would de-solder the antenna from the board instead of cutting it, then you can insert a piece of coax between and if it doesn't work you can remove it and re-solder the original antenna back to the board. Cutting the original coax means it's a one-way experiment :)
	Amal ;) www.amal.net