Electronic Door Srikes

I don't know anything about that company.  After taking a look at the site though I was a little more interested in this strike.

3-6VDC Electric Strike

This is also a smaller strike that would require less modification to the door frame.  In my case, retrofitting this strike would be alot smoother than those with a larger face.

Also this strike is not "handed" or directional.  If your door opens on the either side you would be able to use this strike.  If anyone has anything to say about the quality of these products please speak up.  I was looking at some on another site... Over $100...  If these are actually a quality piece of equiptment I will be doing more than just my primary door.  SOON


Edited by FearNoIdea - 03 April 2006 at 6:06pm

Amal you beat my edit.  I was going to add the question, "is this latch overload for the phidgets board?" 

I'm glad to hear this is a good product... I'm about to order 2.

I like that these strikes are reversible.  I was alittle disappointed to see the shipping $10US for one of these little strikes.  For the moment I have only ordered 1 of them, for testing purposes.  I will let you guys know how it goes.

...

Hey Amal... That movie doesn't show a strike at all... It does show a nice little desk setup though. =)  I dig the monitor config.

I have purchased the following electronic strike

12Vdc Electronic Strike

In all of my desk testing this unit is performing fine. I will update this post after I have installed the strike in my door frame.  I would like to note the mounting depth is significant.  One should take into consideration the depth of a strike like this when ordering.  Some fairly significant modification to my wood doorframe will be necessary to install this unit.

KyleB wrote: I picked up the smarthome 8-16VAC/3-6VDC version. Does anyone know if there are any problems powering this off of a 5VDC line from the computer? I want to wire up a box for the Phidgets board that uses the 5VDC line to power the lock.  I'm not sure about the 900mA that the lock description talks about and if this is compatible with the pc line.

I said this in an earlier post:

amal wrote: Even though the thing is directly connected to the Phidgets, I don't suggest you do that. The current draw from the latch is too high and energizing it for longer than a second or two will result in that familiar burning smell. Even at a second or two I'm sure it severely limits the lifetime of the transistor on the Phidgets board.

The fact is, you CAN power a 900mA device from the USB port, but you should make you have no other USB devices on the entire USB bus. Typically, the max available current on a USB 1.1 or 2.0 bus is around 500mA max, but as you can see I've been able to power my strike.

As for powering your strike off the PC power supply, the +5V output typically can support between 20 and 30 amps. Not to be confused with the -5V output, which can really only supply about half an amp.

Here's a great reference for powering devices from your PC: http://www.epanorama.net/circuits/power_from_pc.html


Edited by amal - 17 April 2006 at 7:47pm